I’ve tried using a normal sewing machine for almost every kind of fabric so as to find the differences since I was 19. Being a beginner in this industry, I was advised that to become more professional in the sewing industry required a more advanced, top-tier sewing machine with multiple functions so that you can make your own creation.
Every professional sewers widely expand their range of choices for sewing machines so as to create the perfect embroidery of crafting. This effort takes time and patience for most sewers.
Stretchy fabric has been my favorite since I was a kid; therefore, in this blog, it would be my honor to introduce to you about the best sewing machine for stretchy fabric which is my major.
As a specialist in sewing machines for stretchy fabric, it’s necessary for you to consult this guide for beneficial interviews and facts you need to learn by heart if you want to purchase your own sewing machine for stretchable fabric.
When making a purchase, what to look for?
As a rule, before buying everything you need to know the first thing about those things, such as the origin, it’s beauty, functions and also answer the question if those things fit you perfectly.
Specifically, in sewing industry, when hunting for a machine, experienced sewers recommend these options:
– First of all, you will need a full metal rotary hook. You’ll be able to avoid several traffic bottlenecks as a consequence of this. You also need a hook that spins in a circle rather than back and forth.
– Secondly, the machine should open so as to clear out any accumulated lint. You don’t want to have to take it in for every cleaning, even if you finally want expert care such as cleaning and oiling. It will clog and destroy my machine if it isn’t cleaned.
– Thirdly, obtain a machine with an open arm at all times. This is standard on most new machines, so it shouldn’t be a big issue. This is required to stitch sleeves or pant legs that must slide over the arm.
– Fourthly, universal pressure allows your machine to automatically adjust to different thicknesses of fabrics. With thicker fabrics, this will prevent your machine from jamming.
– Fifthly, it is recommended to use machines that thread easily. If at all possible, test the sewing machine in a store to see how it works. If you’re buying something online, look at what other people have said about it.This is extremely vital for sewers who have lost their eyesight.
– Finally, more importantly, avoid using a lot of plastic. Buying a quality machine with no cheap plastic parts that might break easily can help you avoid difficulties.
2. Stitch options
To continue, I will show you some basic stitches that are essential for your sewing machine.
– Straight stitches – This is familiarly a stitch that every sewers need in their machine for all the fabrics.
– Zig Zag – When you need a completed look for raw edges, this is the exact tool to utilize.
– Stretch straight – This is the stitch which you need something to stay stable after a lot of use. It’s a precise stitch, so you’ll need a machine that can do it right away.
– Tri-motion – It protects your edges from unraveling by finishing them.
– Blind hem – Used to create hems that are invisible or barely seen, from the right side of the garment.
– Button hole – If you ever need to make button holes for clothing or other items like shower curtains, a one-step button hole option will save your time and effort.
Other stitches will be required depending on the tasks you work on, but these are the essentials.
3. Mechanical or Electronic
– To achieve the stitches you want with a mechanical machine, you’ll have to turn dials.
– Electronic machines will make the adjustments for you.. You simply push a button to tell it which stitch you want.
– A solid state electrical machine can work with much more than two layers of material. Working with heavier fabrics like leather, denim, and canvas is also simplified. They’re also more costly.
4. Bells and Whistle
– Make certain that the machine you purchase is capable of doing all of your jobs. In the coming years, you may want to master abilities that will necessitate the acquisition of extra features.It is possible to attach functionality to some machines later, so check to see whether it’s feasible. As a result, you’ll be able to add as needed.
– Though the extras are nice to have if you need them, you don’t want to overwhelm yourself by purchasing a machine that is overly sophisticated at first.
5. The machine’s capacity and dimension
– If you have to store the machine when it’s not in use or if you carry it to craft fairs or company, etc., this is a consideration. However, the weight of even small portable machines can vary, so you need to lift it before buying or at the very least double-check the weight listed before buying online.
– If you just plan to use your machine at home in a certain location, a heavier machine with metal parts rather than plastic parts may be a better choice.
6. Service and Warranty
Know how much time the guarantee is active for and what it protects.. Also, find out if your computer can be maintained locally or if you’ll have to send it somewhere. Find out what other sewers have to say about the customer service at the firm you’re considering buying from.
Sewers have a plethora of Facebook groups and forums to choose from. You can inquire people about their favourite products and what they suggest. But be prepared for a variety of responses, each of which will believe their pick is the finest.
Finally, you must conduct your own study and select the machine that is best suited to your requirements. Keep in mind that quality takes precedence over more features.
– It would be great if this wasn’t even a thought. If every sewer could buy exactly the machine they wanted without having to worry about the expense, the world would be a better place. That’s not always the case, however.
– You most definitely have a budget in mind while seeking for a machine. This may cause you to assess the benefits and drawbacks.
– A decent, superior mechanical steel machine can be had for under $300. If it is out of your price range, let’s take a look about these sewing machines for stretchable fabric :
7.1 . Brother XM2701 Sewing Machine, Lightweight, Full Featured, 27 Stitches, 6 Included Feet
- The price is only 145$ for a piece from my favourite brand Brother. Here are some technical specifications for the device:
- The XM2701 comes with 27 built-in stitches, including decorative, blind hem, zigzag, and stretch stitches, as well as an auto-size buttonhole.
- Automatic needle threader and drop-in top bobbin: This sewing machine comes with an automatic needle threader that threads the needle correctly and a convenient, jam-resistant drop-in top bobbin.
- Included accessories: 6 sewing feet, 3-piece needle set, twin needle, 4 bobbins, instructional DVD, manual, and more are included with the XM2701.
- Versatile free arm: Free arm that can be used in a variety of ways: This free arm sewing machine is ideal for a variety of everyday sewing jobs for users of all skill levels.
- At your side support: Brother’s XM2701 sewing machine comes with Brother’s Brother’s Brother’s Brother’s Brother’s Brother’ For the life of your system, we provide free technical support via online, live chat, or phone.
- This item is only meant to be offered in the United States at 120 volts, and any other use or sale will cancel the guarantee.
7.2 . SINGER | 4423 Heavy Duty Sewing Machine:
– This brand made a big breakthrough by introducing the 4423 Heavy Duty sewing machine. Such massive functions inside the 200$ sewing machine will never let you down:
- SINGER HEAVY DUTY SEWING MACHINE: You may sew a range of projects with the 23 built-in stitches, which include basic, stretch, ornamental, and buttonhole stitches, including clothes, home décor, quilts, crafts, and more.
- AUTOMATIC NEEDLE THREADER SEWING MACHINE: This built-in feature assists you in threading the eye of the needle without eye strain or aggravation after following the threading path printed right on the machine. Amps (0.7). Watts (84). Volts (120). Hz (60)
- HIGH-SPEED SEWING MACHINE: Projects may be sewn rapidly with the Singer 4423 Stitching Machine, which has a maximum sewing speed of 1,100 stitches per minute.The 60% bigger motor provides extra piercing power for thicker seams.
- HEAVY DUTY METAL FRAME: Singer’s heavy-duty sewing machine, the 4423, is a true workhorse. This sewing engine is capable of sewing through a variety of heavy-duty materials and delivers long-term stability. Because of its heavy-duty metal inner frame, stainless steel bed frame, extra-high sewing speed, and powerful motor.
- SEWING MACHINE ACCESSORIES: A number of extras are included in the package. The accessory tray holds the all-purpose foot, zipper foot, buttonhole foot, button sewing foot, seam ripper/lint brush, quilting guide, needles, bobbins, screwdriver, auxiliary spool pin, and spool pin felt. The box also includes a soft-sided dust cover.
- WARRANTY: A 25-year limited warranty is included with the SINGER 4423 Heavy Duty Portable Sewing Machine. Note: In the Technical Specification for Manuals, refer to the Videos as well as the PDF included below.
7. 3 . Brother CS5055 Sewing Machine:
- Here comes another Brother sewing machine. this machine has 2 types : this new model CS5055 for 148$ and the model CS5055PRW from 692$
- 60 UNIQUE BUILT-IN STITCHES: The Brother CS5055 sewing machine has 60 built-in stitches, including utility, decorative, and heirloom stitch features, as well as 7 1-step auto-size buttonholes.
- IMPROVED NEEDLE THREADER: The automatic needle threader reliably puts the thread through the needle and is easier to use than before. The easy-to-load, jam-resistant drop-in top bobbin is simple to load and keeps your bobbin in position.
- ACCESSORIES INCLUDED: 7 sewing feet, 4 bobbins, a needle set, a trilingual English/Spanish/French user handbook, and more are included with the CS5055.
- FIXED NEEDLE BAR AND METAL FRAME: The machine’s sturdy metal frame can handle any job, and the needle stays in place while you work, allowing for smoother stitching and even lines.
- WORKSPACE FROM NEEDLE TO ARM: Users can work on larger projects with a larger workspace and improved needle-to-arm space.
- This product is only meant to be sold in the United States at 120 volts, and any other use or sale will void the guarantee.
7.4 . Janome 2212 12 Stitch FullSize Freearm Sewing Machine
- Let’s talk about Janome, a japanese brand with a huge sale on Janome 2212 12 Stitch Fullsize Freearm Sewing Machine with bonus Bundle:
- Bed type: Convertible free arm / flat bed bed
- Screen: Pre-printed on the front panel is a screen.
- Maximum speed: 860 spm | Buttonhole Type: 4-Step
- Number of built-in stitches: 6 stitches and a buttonhole are included in the design.
- 10 bobbins and 2 Schmetz 90/14 universal needles are included in the bonus package (5pk). *Packaging may vary.
*Products might well be substituted depending on the available stock.
7.5 . Brother XR9550 Sewing and Quilting Machine
- Next one is Brother XP9550 Sewing and Quilting Machine :
- 165 unique built-in stitches:The Brother XR9550 computerized sewing machine has 165 built-in stitches, including 110 utility, decorative, and heirloom stitches, as well as 8 varieties of auto-size buttonholes and 55 alphanumeric sewing stitches.
- Automatic needle threader and drop-in top bobbin: Brother fast needle threading system with drop-in top bobbin: The Brother fast needle threading system threads the needle for you, and the drop-in top bobbin is convenient and jam-resistant.
- Accessories included: A protective hard cover, broad table, 8 sewing and quilting foot, instructional DVD, and more are included with the XR9550 quilting and sewing machine.
- LCD screen: With the stroke of a button, you can simply select your stitches and settings on the simple LCD display
- At your side support: For the life of your machine, the XR9550 quilting and sewing machine comes with Brother at your side support, which provides free technical help via online, live chat, or phone.
- This product is only meant to be sold in the United States at 120 volts, and any other use or sale will void the guarantee.
7.6 . SINGER | 9985 Sewing & Quilting Machine:
- Back to the brand Singer, we have the Stinger | 9985 Sewing & Quiilting Machine. This machine can do both 2 task perfectly, as a matter of fact, the price is also high at approximately 550$ but it’s trustworthy:
- SINGER COMPUTERIZED SEWING MACHINE: The SINGER Quantum Stylist 9985 portable sewing machine comes with a plethora of user-friendly functions to help you realize your creative goals. For fashion sewing, quilting, home decor, and crafting, the color touch LCD screen has a vast assortment of stitches, including basic, stretch, and ornamental sutures. There’s also a typeface library to help you customize your creations.
- AUTOMATIC NEEDLE THREADER: Threading the machine is so simple that you can thread the whole thing in seconds, from the spool to the needle’s eye. The built-in needle threader takes care of threading the needle’s eye, reducing eye strain and frustration.
- BEST SEWING MACHINE: The SINGER Quantum Stylist 9985 sewing machine boasts 960 built-in stitches, including 6 Alphanumeric Fonts and 13 built-in 1-Step Buttonholes with Exclusive Buttonhole Underplate, making it the best sewing machine on the market. Mirror Imaging and Stitch Elongation are also included, giving you even more creative options.
- HIGH-SPEED SEWING MACHINE: Long seams may be sewed rapidly with the SINGER Quantum Stylist 9985 sewing machine, which has a maximum stitching speed of 850 stitches per minute.
- ACCESSORIES FOR SEWING MACHINE: There are a number of accessories included. Blind Hem Foot, Satin Stitch Foot, Overcasting Foot, Darning / Embroidery Foot, Narrow Rolled Hem Foot, Buttons Sewing Foot, 3/8-inch Foot, Open Toe Foot, Even Feed / Walking Foot, and Braided rope Foot are among the several types of sewing feet.
- This sewing machine is covered by a two-year warranty in the United States and Canada at 110 volts only
7.7 . Brother Sewing and Quilting Machine, CS6000i
- The CS6000i Sewing and Quilting Machine from Brother, for only nearly 210$, that can be a good choice for you to pick up the machine doing both 2 tasks :
- 60 Unique built-in stitches: The Brother CS6000i has 60 built-in sewing stitches, including decorative stitches and 7 styles of auto-size buttonholes. Automatic needle threader and drop-in top bobbin: This sewing and quilting machine comes with an automatic needle threader that threads the needle correctly and a convenient, jam-resistant drop-in top bobbin.
- Accessories included: The CS6000i comes with a durable carrying case, a large table, ten stitching feet, a needle set with twin needles, three bobbins, and more.
- LCD Screen: With the press of a button, you can easily select your stitches and view them on the LCD display.
- 25 Year limited warranty: The CS6000i is supported by a 25-year limited warranty with free technical assistance for the life of the device.
- This product is only meant to be sold in the United States at 120 volts, and any other use or sale will void the guarantee.
7.8 . Bernette 38 Swiss Design Computerized Sewing Machine
- Last but not least, we will have the Bernette 38 Swiss Design Computerized Sewing Machine – A huge machine with complex funtions and technology :
- Automatic Limitation for Double Needles: When switching from a single to a double needle, the double needle button will assist you in adapting your needle to the presser foot, ensuring that neither needle accidentally hits the presser foot and breaks. The stitch width is limited by the double-needle safety function to prevent the needle from hitting the presser foot.
- Adjusting the Presser Foot Pressure to Suit the Material: Adjusting the presser foot pressure for specific materials, such as lightweight or thin fabrics, is recommended.
- Automatic Thread Cutter and Tie-Off Function: To keep a seam from unraveling, the thread must be tied off when it reaches the end. Normally, you’d achieve this by stitching backwards and forwards quickly. With the Bernette 38, this is no longer necessary because it features an automatic tie-off feature.
- Extension Table for Large Sewing Projects Included: The Bernette 38 comes with an extension table that is simple to connect and detach and provides additional workspace for large sewing items like garments, quilts, and curtains.
- Eight Presser Feet Included: You receive eight presser feet and a stable presser foot shank with your Bernette 38. For anything you wish to sew, you can choose the proper presser foot.
8. Why Can’t I Use a Regular Sewing Machine?
– You might be asking why, when stitching stretchy fabric, you need to modify your sewing machine settings. The major reason is that we usually use a straight stitch when sewing woven textiles, and because straight stitches cannot stretch, they will ‘pop’ and break when the cloth is stretched. As a result, we’ll need to choose a stitch like a zig zag stitch that can stretch with the fabric.
– To guarantee that the cloth is directed through the machine without stretching out, we must also lessen the pressure on the presser foot. If the presser foot is pressed down too firmly, the feed dogs on the bottom will not be able to smoothly pull the fabric away from the needle region, causing the fabric to stretch out. This is less of a concern with woven fabrics because they are usually sturdy and the presser foot is incapable of pulling them along.
SEWING MACHINE SETTINGS FOR STRETCHY FABRIC
1. PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE
To begin, I strongly advise using a walking foot when sewing knit fabrics. If you don’t already have one, buy one — it’s a touch more expensive than your normal sewing machine foot, but it’s the foot I use the most (and it’s pretty much the default foot on my sewing machine at this point). The walking foot ensures that all layers of fabric are fed into the machine uniformly and that the top layer of cloth is not dragged. When sewing knit fabrics with a conventional foot, ripples are common. Using the walking foot helps reduce these ripples.
I’ve discovered that if I use my walking foot, I don’t need to alter the presser foot pressure because the walking foot takes care of ensuring that the fabric flows evenly. If you don’t have a walking foot and are sewing knit fabrics with a conventional sewing machine foot, you will most likely need to reduce the presser foot pressure a few levels. Because different sewing machines use different numbering systems, I can’t specify what the presser foot pressure should be on each one. On my Janome 5124, for example, the standard presser foot setting for woven fabrics is 3, but when I sew with stretchy knit materials, I set it to 1.
If I’m working with a slightly stretchy fabric, I’ll put the presser foot pressure to 2, and if I’m working with a stable knit fabric, like a double knit, I’ll keep it at 3. Simply experiment with different pressure settings on scrap pieces of cloth until you find the ones that work best for your sewing machine.
*One final point to remember: make sure you’re adjusting the presser foot pressure, not the thread tension dial! ( This isn’t the first time I’ve done something like this.) Check your machine’s manual to find where the presser foot dial is placed; it’s usually near the top. On my Janome 5124, it’s a black dial toward the left on the top of the machine.
2. STITCHES SETTINGS
I won’t be able to discuss all of the many stretch stitches available on sewing machines these days because there are so many. Instead, I’ll go through the most common stitch kinds that you’ll find on most home sewing machines.
The basic zigzag stitch is ideal for stitching seams because it closely resembles the appearance of a serged or overcast edge.On my zigzag, I used a width of 6 and a length of 1.5, which gave me a fairly dense zigzag that was about the same width as the stitching I would obtain with my serger. After that, I just sew down the seam as if it were a straight stitch.
*quick tip: Make sure you alter the location of your seam guide when sewing with the zigzag stitch (or any stitch with some width). The distance from the center needle position is indicated by the seam guidelines on your metal throat plate. Because the needle is not in the center needle position when sewing zigzag stitches, you’ll need to set new guidelines that are the correct distance from the left side of your zigzag.
The zigzag stitch is an excellent choice for stitching knit textiles, but it has two major drawbacks. To begin, this approach does not work well on light-weight fabrics because the zigzag creates a ‘ridge’ or ‘tunnel’
THREE-STEP ZIGZAG OR TRICOT STITCH
The three-step or tricot stitch is a close cousin of the zigzag stitch and is ideal for stitching light-weight materials since it does not create a ‘ridge’ or ‘tunnel’
I like to use this stitch with a width of 6 and a length of 1. (Any stitch length less than 1 tends to bunch up the fabric in my experience.) Then I just sew along the seam line and trim the fabric close to the stitching, just like I would with a traditional zigzag stitch.
Remember that you’ll need to change your seam guide to acquire the proper distance from the left side of your zigzag, as mentioned before.
A zigzag stitch with one long side and one short side, the lightning stitch is a zigzag stitch with one long side and one short side. Although the stitch appears to be a straight line, it still allows the fabric to stretch.
Simply sew along the seam in the same manner you would a straight stitch to utilize this stitch for seaming. When stitching heavy fabrics and needing to press open the seam allowance, the lightning stitch is a wonderful option. (As I previously stated, the traditional zigzag or triple zigzag stitches aren’t ideal for bulky materials since they generate a single seam allowance with a double layer of fabric, which can be bulky and cause a ridge beneath your clothing.)
Because it resembles a straight stitch, the lightning stitch is also a wonderful choice for hemming and topstitching. Personally, I despise using a zigzag stitch on the hem because it makes the garment appear unfinished, so when hemming, I always use the lightning stitch or the triple straight stitch.
TRIPPLE STRAIGHT STITCH
The triple straight stitch (also known as the triple strength or triple stretch stitch) is a highly strong stitch made by stitching forward, backward, and forward again. It resembles a straight line in appearance, but is slightly thicker and more prominent.
When hemming or topstitching sturdy medium-weight knit fabrics with a noticeable stitching line, I like to use this technics. If you’re dealing with a really textured sweater knit, for example, the triple straight stitch might be the only method to get a visible stitching line (the lightning stitch just disappears into the texture of the fabric).
The triple straight stitch isn’t recommended for light-weight or stretchy knit fabrics since it causes puckering and bunching. (When the cloth won’t progress through the feed dogs, I end up sewing a knotted ball of thread into the fabric.)
3. OTHER SEWING SUGGESTIONS FOR STRETCHABLE TEXTILES
If your cloth is relatively stretchy, use ballpoint needles or stretch needles (if your fabric is really stretchy). The circular tip on these needles ensures that they won’t damage your cloth. If you’re having trouble with skipped stitches, switching to a ballpoint or stretch needle can help.
Make sure the fabric is fed smoothly into the machine. Pulling or pushing the fabric through the machine, as well as having huge portions of fabric hanging off the machine’s edge, will cause the cloth to stretch. Make sure there’s enough room around your sewing machie on the table to lay the fabric flat.
Try pinning your fabric to tissue paper and sewing through the fabric and tissue paper together if you’re having difficulties passing it through the sewing machine without stretching it out. Carefully take the tissue paper away when you’ve completed sewing. The tissue paper acts as a stabilizer for the fabric, preventing it from stretching as it passes through the sewing machine.
Try ironing the seam with a lot of steam if you mistakenly stretch your cloth during sewing and wind up with wavy seams. This will usually eliminate the waviness and allow the seam to rest flat.
The Advantages and Disadvantages about Using a Serger to Stitch Knits
As far as I am informed, using a serger to sew knits is absolutely convenient; nevertheless, it also makes some drawbacks for sewers
Long-time serger owners, ranging from expert seamstresses and tailors to home enthusiasts, all appreciate these machines. Here are some of the reasons why they adore sergers.
The ability to trim seam allowances as you sew is a function that only sergers have. All models come with a set of upper and lower cutting blades that activate as soon as the pedal is pressed. Most versions allow you to retract the cutting blades so they’re inactive if you’re working on a job that doesn’t require fabric trimming.
While no one but you notices the inside of your hand-made garments, being able to finish seams, hems, and sleeves with a clean, professional finish is always a benefit. Who wouldn’t want to make clothes that appear like they came from a high-end boutique? Making professional-looking things could even lead to a lucrative home company.
Secure, Durable Stitches
Anyone who sews knows how aggravating it is to have a seam separate owing to fraying fabric or broken stitches. A serger uses many threads to create strong, resilient stitches that resist fraying and persist for years. A serger encases the cloth tightly while still providing enough give to prevent tearing or broken stitches while enduring multiple launderings, whether it uses two threads or eight.
Great for Stretchy Fabrics
Nothing looks more unprofessional than puckered seams on a knit dress or blouse. The give in a serger’s overlock stitch is primarily designed to make smooth, secure stitches on knit and other stretchy fabrics of various types and weights. A serger is the perfect machine to use on knits, especially for attaching elastic, from yoga pants to swimwear.
A serger may sew at approximately three times the pace of a typical home sewing machine, depending on the type. While it may take some skill to successfully handle some types of cloth going through a machine at up to 1,700 stitches per minute, you’ll be able to make a classic knit skirt in as little as 20 minutes instead of hours in no time.
Sergers, like sewing machines, have their own set of issues and drawbacks. Sergers, with the exception of those with a coverstitch option, are not designed to be stand-alone machines. They were designed to work with domestic sewing machines.
Depending on the stitch you’re employing, most sergers use up to four separate threads. Some high-end and industrial devices, on the other hand, can use up to eight. An average spool of sewing thread would run out in seconds due to the volume of thread utilized. These machines necessitate the purchase of enormous thread cones that may contain up to 4,000 yards of thread. The majority of threads come in a variety of colors, specialized, and decorative varieties.
Many users agree that threading a non-automatic machine is not enjoyable. New users will find threading the upper and lower loopers on many entry-level devices time-consuming and frustrating. While most sergers come with color-coded threading charts, instruction manuals, and, in some cases, step-by-step DVDs, most machines are difficult to thread. Auto-threading is a feature found on several high-end machines.
Because of the high speeds at which sergers operate, they are naturally noisier than a typical sewing machine. Some, on the other hand, are much noisier than others. The weight of the machine and internal components, as well as the equipment’s cheap or plastic design, can all contribute to noise and vibration levels.Both issues are mitigated by the weight and sturdy metal construction, although a properly made serger pad can also assist alleviate both annoyances.
Serger prices vary depending on the type and number of features and functions each model offers, much as sewing machine prices do. While an entry-level model with a few basic stitch options and capabilities can cost as little as $200, high-end ones can cost as much as $2,000 or more. It’s critical to do your homework, try out the machines you prefer at a shop, and think about your serger’s equipment needs, skill level, and future ambitions. They might be a significant financial commitment.
Purchasing a serger, like a sewing machine, is a significant creative investment. Learning the ins and outs of the machine you choose requires time, patience, and practice, just like learning the ins and outs of your sewing machine.
Frequently Asked Questions
Let’s talk about some queries that are remarkable, then we can solve our problems easily and make you choose the best sewing machine for stretchy fabric:
1. Is it still preferable to serge knit garments?
If you have a serger, this is the best method for sewing with knits. A 3-thread or 4-thread stitch will hold a seam together while yet allowing for sufficient stretch. Regular serger thread, wooly nylon thread, or (my personal preference) stretch thread can all be used. T-shirts, skirts, and leggings are a cinch to make if you have a serger. Nevertheless, it will not be neccessary for you to have a serger if you don’t have to sew a huge amount of knits.
As a result, my advice for this question is “ If you have to sew a huge amount of knits, a serger will be your best partner. “
2. For knit garments, which thread must I utilize?
There are certain choices for ways to choose needles for knit garments depends on your demand and your kinds of knit fabric :
- Less stretch = Universal or ballpoint: When it comes to choosing the correct needle, lower stretch knits like ponte or sweatshirting are less picky than other knits. Knits or ballpoints that are universal work well on these. Cotton knits work well with universals and ballpoints because they aren’t overly stretchy. If you’re having trouble with skipped stitches with a universal or ballpoint, try stretching.
- More stretch = play it safe with a stretch needle: It was a fantastic day when I found stretch needles. I had been sewing using universals, well, universally, up until that time. On some days, this worked, while on others, it was Struggle City. My stitches would either skip or fail to form a single stitch. I was quite frustrated for several hours. Then I read Sandra Betzina’s book More Fabric Savvy, in which she advises stretch needles for knit materials. That was a game-changer, man. A stretch needle will save the day when it comes to more stretchy knits like ITY, rayon jersey, 2 or 4-way stretch fabrics, and anything with lycra. Stretch needles have a slightly different point than conventional ballpoints or universals, and are designed for textiles with spandex or lycra.
- Double needle for hemming knits: When hemming knits, you can use your regular stretch, universal, or ballpoint needle, but a stretch double needle is another choice. Knitted sample of a french terry sweater with a decent needle selection. On the right side of the fabric, a double needle stitches two parallel rows. This style is inspired by the hems of ready-to-wear knits that are created with a coverstitch machine. Coverstitch machines are amazing, but they’re overkill when you’re just starting out, and a double needle is more than plenty for hemming your knits! Let’s take a brief look at how to knit using a double needle.
3. Why does my machine’s needle keep breaking?
There are several reasons why your machine’s needle keep breaking:
- Thread Catches on the Spool: These wonderful thread holders are notched in the edge of some thread brands’ spools. Yes, it’s convenient, but if the thread spool is on its side, it might trap in the groove, tighten the thread, and SNAP the sewing machine needle. To avoid this, use a vertical thread pin to hold this sort of thread up.
- Thread Wraps Around the Spool Cap: The thread can get stuck between the thread spool and the cap when using a horizontal spool pin and a spool cap to keep them in place. A spool cap is required to maintain the thread in place, but it must be pulled into place so that the thread does not trap between the two.
- Thread Wraps Itself Around a Thread Guide More Than Once: One of the most typical issues is this. When a threading issue occurs, the needle of a sewing machine might easily break. The additional resistance can pull the needle out of position, causing it to strike the throat plate, hook, or bobbin case.
- Fabric is “Helped” Through the Machine: The needle can misalign and hit the throat plate if you need to help draw the fabric through the machine. To avoid this, increase the stitch length to allow the machine to move the fabric through the machine with minimal needle damage.
- Sewing Machine Needle Too Small: When constructing a tote bag, this is an excellent example. Sewing simple components together in the beginning usually involves no more than two layers at a time. However, as you get closer to the finish of the project, you’ll be asking the needle to go through several layers upon layers. You may have just needed a size 80/12 needle at first, but at the end, you’ll need a Topstitch 100/16 needle.
4. Why does my sewing machine’s top thread keep breaking?
There might be 8 reasons why the upper thread of your sewing machine keep breaking :
- The machine is not threaded correctly: When the thread is not threaded correctly, it is under a lot of tension or produces knots during stitching. Unthread the machine and rethread it according to the instructions. While the threading process varies slightly between models, make sure you thread the machine with the presser foot lifter lifted, the needle raised, and the needle in the highest position. Before creating space, the threads must pass through all of the thread guide’s portions, and also the hooked pins at the front of the needle.It’s also a good idea to raise the bobbin thread. The thread should pass through all parts of thread guide and take-up lever.
- The thread forms loops around the needle: When threading, if you aren’t paying attention, the upper thread may form loops around the needle, resulting in broken thread when stitching. The needle needs to be re-threaded. Bare in mind that perhaps the thread should pass through the pin eye from the front to the back.
- There should be no loops or knots in the thread around the needle. When stitching, if the higher thread makes loops around the needle, the needle may break it.
- The thread tension is too tight: When the tension is set too high, the thread is stretched excessively from the spool to the needle, resulting in high tension in the thread and, as a result, the upper thread breaks when sewing. Reduce the thread tension to see if the situation improves. The lower the number, the lower the amount of tension.
- High needle temperature: This is especially true of synthetic threads. Due to the thermoplastic nature of the thread, a high needle temperature may cause it to fuse or break. Thread lubricant can help prevent the thread from breaking.
- The thread is too thick for the needle: If the thread is excessively thick, it will not fit through the eye of a smaller needle. This produces a lot of friction between the thread and the needle’s eye, which eventually breaks the thread. Choose a larger needle if you need to utilize thick threads.
- The needle is not inserted correctly: The thread will easily break if there is still space in the needle shaft or if the flat side of the needle faces you. You can try removing and re-inserting the needle with the flat side facing back and no space left.
- The thread winds around the spool holder pin: When stitching, a thread wound around the spool holder pin instead of the reel is put under a lot of strain and eventually breaks. To ensure that the thread comes out of the reel smoothly, clear out any thread remaining in the holder pin.
- The needle is damaged: A needle that has been damaged is unable to hold the thread securely. When stitching, there is a lot of friction against the thread, which causes it to break. Replace the needle with a new one if it is damaged in any way.
5. Why can’t I sew the curves accurately?
Initiate with freshly ironed fabric while stitching curves:
Starting by starching your cloth before cutting them can make the stitching procedure for curves much easier afterwards! I treat nearly all fabric before cutting with a spray starch like Best Press, and I find it very handy when working with curved fabric pieces.
I always use Best Press to spray my cloth and then iron it flat with a really hot iron. The starch dries with the heat from the iron, so I’m ready to start cutting out my quilt design pieces!
For Sewing Shapes, Cut Exact Parts
I constructed my own templates out of cardboard for the first curved pieces quilt I ever produced. And with each cut, I had to shave a tiny sliver of the template away. It was challenging, a little dirty, and far from ideal! I believe that starting with more accurate fabric pieces would have resulted in a more precise quilt in the end. There are two major ways to cut curved fabric pieces, and I’ll show you how to do both.
Using a Fabric Cutting Machine
It’s no secret that I love using AccuQuilt to cut as many fabric pieces as possible for virtually any quilting project. But when it comes to stitching curves, I can’t emphasize enough how important that is! Cutting out curved fabric can be difficult, but not with an AccuQuilt die cut fabric machine!
One of my favorite features of using AccuQuilt to sew curves is how it marks notches for you to use to align the centers of each form! The notches make aligning the centers of each piece extremely straightforward and quick!
Using a Rotary Cutter
If you want to cut with a rotary cutter, be sure your cuts are exact and that you have a way to indicate the center of your curves! There are several useful templates available that can help you cut with a rotary cutter instead of using cardboard or paper!
If you’re using a rotary cutter to cut out your curves, be sure to indicate the center of each piece. Fold each fabric piece in half and press a slight crease in the center to mark it.
Baste Curves in Place with Glue or Pins
Now comes the tough part… it’s a good idea to baste your curved fabric pieces in place before sewing them together. There are a few different ways to baste the curves in place. Some people like pins, but I find that I get bored of them soon and that using pins causes puckers in the materials and stitches. Instead, I’ve switched to basting my curved fabrics together with adhesive!
Marinating Twisted Fabric Together Using Glue
It’s exactly what it sounds like: glue basting your curves! You simply use adhesive to bind the curves together for the time being. On the inner curve, I use this glue stick to make a tiny line. Only use glue in the seam allowance, and manipulate the fabrics to keep them in place until you’re ready to stitch them down. It’s vital to note that you’ll need acid-free adhesive to avoid accidentally damaging your fabrics. I recommend using a glue stick, but you may also use Elmer’s school glue if you like! If you’re using liquid glue, you might want to use a bottle with a slender tip like this for better precision.
If you’re using a glue stick, simply pushing it in place will keep it in place until the curves are stitched together. However, if you’re using liquid glue to baste your curves, you should iron the fabrics after you’ve glued them down to allow the liquid glue to set and dry completely before sewing your stitches on your sewing machine.
It’s vital to maintain the glue within the 1/4″ seam allowance and smooth it out to remove any puckers in the cloth before stitching it in place, regardless of the type of glue you use.
6. What is the finest quilting pattern for elastic textile?
Here are 3 best stitches for stretchy fabric as a professional sewer for you:
The basic zigzag stitch
When working with knit fabric, the stitch needs to be adaptable. We will pop the thread apart when the fabric is stretched if we use a typical straight stitch that cannot be extended.
We utilize the zigzag stitch to prevent this.
A regular zigzag stitch is available on all sewing machines. So, if we can’t come up with anything smarter that works with your unique sewing machine, that’s your backup plan. Newer machines, on the other hand, have a wide range of stitches to pick from.
Make sure you read your manual and understand your options. We are not going to cover any special stitches that are exclusive to your model in this blog post.
The default zigzag stitch has a width of 3,5 mm (0,14″) and a length of 1,4 mm (0,055″). It’s a medium-width stitch with a short length.
After being stretched a lot, this stitch will usually not recover perfectly, but it will be quite flexible. So, even though it’s easy to accomplish, make sure you don’t tug and drag the garment too much.
Because of its versatility, the basic short zigzag stitch is a good choice in most circumstances.
So save the long zigzag stitches for regions that don’t require much stretching. It’s not suitable for a neck, and it’s not suitable for children’s clothing, as they are prone to tearing and pulling. The clothes may have appeared worn out too soon as a result of this.
A twin needle stitch
This stitch uses two needles, as the name implies.
A Twin needle has a regular shank at the top and two parallel needles on the bottom. It’s a unique needle that must be purchased in the correct size.
TIP: Use a ballpoint twin needle (the one depicted above isn’t a ballpoint needle because we didn’t have one on hand to photograph). Jersey needles are another name for a ballpoint needle. It’s a needle with a rounded tip rather than a sharp point like a standard needle. Instead of piercing the cloth, this characteristic allows the needle to flow through it by splitting the threads.
On the rear, the bobbin thread will make a zigzag pattern, while on the front, the two needles will make two straight stitches.
It’s a stretchy stitch (similar to a little zigzag stitch) that’s also attractive. The two straight stitches in the front look great.
For the second needle, you’ll need to mount a second spool containing thread. The thread is then led through the machine in the same manner as your standard upper thread.
This stitch is ideal for creating a hem on a stretched fabric. It’s a lot nicer than the zigzag stitch (which will only be visible on the back of the fabric with this stitch).
Physical evidence is provided by the tripled zigzag thread.
Another popular zigzag pattern that is supposed to add more strength is the zigzag stitch. This is especially useful for items like outdoor gear, kites, tents, and other projects that will be used in potentially hazardous conditions.
Pulling up and down the underwear is a common occurrence. Because of the elastane/stretch content and the fact that it wears out faster than other clothing, a robust and extremely strong stitch is required.
7. Can you use a needle and thread to sew stretchy garment?
It’s a popular misconception that you need a serger to sew with elastic fabrics. Overlockers and sergers are great for working with stretch fabrics and achieving a polished finish, but are they always required? Although a serger can make sewing stretchy knits go faster, it is an expensive addition to your sewing machine for stretchy fabric. It’s also not required when sewing with elastic fabrics. A normal sewing machine’s zigzag stitch can be used instead of a serger.
Some people may have difficulties sewing stretchy fabrics because of the amount of stretch that some materials have. It’s crucial to consider the proportion of stretch in your chosen fabric, as well as whether or not it matches the design.
8. Which sewing machine is suitable for sew knit fabric?
The perfect machine for sewing knits is a serger (as it’s known in the United States) or an overlocker machine (as it’s known outside the United States).
A serger stitch looks like the image above, with loops around the seam allowance’s edge and two straight stitches on either side of the loops. As you sew, a blade within the machine trims the excess seam allowance. Serger stitches stretch organically, so they move with the fabric when you tug on your seams.
Sergers are ideal for stitching knit fabric seams. A serger, on the other hand, isn’t ideal for hemming knits and can’t be used for topstitching.
9. How do you machine sew stretchy fabric?
How to handle the fabric
Ensure that the cloth you’re using is appropriate for your project or pattern.
Always wash your stretchable fabric before using it. Allow it to dry flat for at least a day in order to maintain its shape.
Print off your design after putting it on the cloth. Pin your fabric and cut out the patterns with scissors OR use paperweights and a rotary cutter to keep it in place.
Pins should be kept inside the seam allowance. This prevents unwelcome holes from appearing in the clothing.
Get rid of the curl. Some elastic textiles, such as knitted jersey, have a tendency to curl towards the edges. This can make sewing even more difficult. Use a starchy spray and push the edges to reverse the curl.
10. What kind of thread and needle should I use for stretch fabric?
Select the appropriate tool for the task. A specific needle, either a ballpoint or a stretch needle, should be used to stitch any stretchy knit textiles. When sewing, a ballpoint needle has a rounded tip that pushes the strands away. It prevents the knit fabric from being damaged while cutting and stitching. This is in contrast to the regular piercing and ripping of them.
After all, size does matter. Make sure you get the proper needle size for your fabric.
What thread to use for stretch fabric: special threads are rarely needed, and a standard polyester thread with a modest bit of stretch will suffice. Cotton-thread should not be used since it can break when tugged.
For Stretchable Materials, the Greatest Stretching Threads and Sewing Options
Use stitches that will hold the fabric’s stretch. To avoid puckering and breaking, the stitches must stretch with the fabric. If you must use a straight stitch, draw the material taut rather than pulling it.
Depending on the brand of your sewing machine, you can choose from a wide range of stretch stitches. The ideal threads to utilize while stitching stretchy textiles are listed below.
- Narrow zigzag: use a zigzag setting that is very narrow, with the stitch length equal to the stitch width.
- Overedge stitch: a specialty stitch that stitches and ends a seam in one pass by locking over the fabric’s edge.
- Straight stretching thread: The straight stretch stitch is made up of 3 parallel lines of plain needles.
- A dual thread: The twin-needle stitch requires at least two needles to accomplish.
Using just a separate presser foot is a smart option. Two parallel rows of stitching run across the right side of the fabric. The bobbin thread follows a zigzag pattern on the wrong side of the fabric.
Attempt using a different presser foot. When sewing, a dual feed foot or walking foot attachment for your sewing machine can assist prevent one layer of material from stretching out. Check your machine’s manual to discover which one is compatible.
11. What’s the correct method to sew flexible material without pinching it?
To reduce the puckering, I take the following three simple steps when sewing seams:
STEP 1: USE A WALKING FOOT
The presser foot and feed dogs stretch the fabric out as it is fed into the machine, which is why knit fabric stretches during sewing. To avoid this, I prefer to use a walking foot, which aids in the smoother feeding of the fabric through the machine. (Here’s a link to walking feet for a variety of sewing machine brands.) The walking foot moves the presser foot on top of the cloth in the same way that the feed dogs beneath the fabric move. This means that both layers of the fabric should feed uniformly through the machine, reducing stretching.
STEP 2: WRAPPING PAPER TO NORMALIZE
I use tissue paper to support the fabric when sewing seams in addition to using a walking foot. I place a strip of tissue paper over the seam, sandwiching it between the presser foot and the cloth. This prevents the cloth from being ‘eaten’ by the sewing machine and stretching out. I take away the tissue paper after stitching the seam, leaving a perfect flat seam.
One disadvantage of this procedure is that small pieces of paper might become stuck in the seam and require the use of tweezers to remove.I try to stop this by elevating the tissue paper till it is perpendicular to the fabric and then tearing it – I find that this typically results in a clean tear, but minor bits of paper are occasionally left in the seam despite my best efforts.
It’s worth noting that you don’t need to buy tissue paper specifically for stitching knit textiles. Instead, I try to keep the tissue paper that comes with my internet purchases, or if necessary, I’ll use parchment paper from my kitchen (the kind that is typically used for baking). Other sewists have told me that they use pattern paper or even printer paper to stabilize knit fabrics during stitching.
STEP 3: WHEN SEWING, PUSH STITCH
After sewing, the final and frequently most critical step is to press the seam with a lot of steam. I normally steam the seam for a few seconds before gently pressing the iron on the seam and giving it a nice push. The puckers and waves in the seam are usually pressed out with this method.
12. Is it essential to use a particular stitch for flexible textiles?
What thread to use for stretchy fabric: special threads are rarely needed, and a standard polyester thread with a modest bit of stretch will suffice. Cotton-thread should not be used since it can break when tugged.
To sum up, I’ve informed almost everything about sewing machine for stretchy fabric and some questions, some tips related to. When sewing stretchable fabric, using the appropriate machine so as to create the best crafts. In my opinion, if I have to choose one machine for stretchy machine as a professional sewer, Brother XM2701 Sewing Machine, Lightweight, Full Featured, 27 Stitches, 6 Included Feet might be the most suitable machine because of the affordable price, its beauty and functions. Hope you find the best partner for your sewing journey and create such phenomenal artworks.